We start by releasing tension on the existing spring safely, then pull the old torsion tube, bearing plates, and cable drums to check for wear beyond the spring itself. New springs get wound to match the door's weight and height - guessing the wind count is how you end up with a door that slams shut or won't stay open, so we measure rather than eyeball it. We test the balance by hand after installing, not just by running the opener, because an opener can mask an imbalanced door for a while before it strips a gear. If the door's original hardware includes an extension-spring system rather than torsion, the fix looks different - those springs mount along the horizontal track and get replaced as a pair with new safety cables, which is a code requirement, not an upsell.